We were woken at dawn by rain, and it continued, on and off, all morning. Brigid had wanted to visit the celebrated “Gloucester Tree” (at 61m, the tallest fire lookout tree in the world), but somehow the thought of climbing 153 steps to the viewing platform lost some of its appeal, in the rain.

So we headed north for Dunsborough, to arrange some wreck-diving for tomorrow. The attractive-sounding beachside campsite in Dunsborough had been bought by developers, and a bulldozer could be seen at work beyond the deserted campsite facilities.

We called in at Cape Dive in Naturaliste Terrace to book our dive on the HMAS Swan wreck (sunk in 1997, and prepared with divers in mind). A young couple behind us recommended the beachside campsite at Yallingup on the west coast, only 6kms away. So having re-stocked our larder, we checked in there, and watched the sunset from an almost deserted beach before settling down to a risotto dinner in the van.